Greenwich restaurateur Guy Awford, inspired by Scandi-style’s moment in the sun, creates a beautiful salmon gravad lax
New Nordic Cuisine, with its hay-infused oils and deep-fried mosses, signifies a new direction for Scandinavian cookery. Frugal by nature, this effortlessly cool cuisine, based around small-scale farming, fishing, foraging and artisan producers, is as à la mode as it gets. Essentially, ‘purity, simplicity and freshness’ is the order of the day, which sits well with our relatively newfound enthusiasm for seasonal foods.
It is, however, important not to lose sight of the fact that Old Nordic Cuisine is pretty good too. Over time, their short growing season, limited harvest and cold climate has moulded a very distinct type of fare. As gravad lax – the classic dish of cured salmon made by fishermen during the Middle Ages – demonstrates, there is nothing frilly, fancy or fussy about their food. This is a clean, precise and intelligent use of nature’s raw materials.
To make the mustard dressing for this salmon gravad lax recipe, put one tablespoon each of chopped dill, English mustard, white wine vinegar and sunflower oil into a jar. Add two tablespoons of crème fraiche and a teaspoon of caster sugar and shake vigorously. Leave to stand and shake again to emulsify before serving.